Saturday, June 16, 2007

The City of Pompeii


Planning Italy is one thing, doing Italy is something else. But one has to make adjustments to plans as the real situation changes. In that sense, I guess, doing Italy and for that matter any other foreign country is doing life.

We are back in Rome and I must still figure out how the buses work here. By the way, on the Internet some people write that Rome is a small enough city one can walk everywhere. Bullshit! Rome is a massive city and walking in 30 Degree Celsius heat for miles is crazy and a total waste of precious time.

Day 2 started badly. I took the wrong train from Naples to Pompeii. I planned to take the Circumvesuviana (isn't that a tongue twister) train to Pompeii Scavi, but ended up taking the Trenitalia train to Pompei station. (Pompei is the modern day city and Pompeii is the ruins.) What's the difference between the stations? A little bit further to walk and missing most of the curio sellers and on renting an audio device which provide information about the ruins as you walk through it.

Nevertheless, Pompeii was impressive, even in 33 degree Celsius heat. The city, destroyed in 79 AD by a volcanic eruption from nearby Mount Vesuvius was rediscovered in 1748 by archeologists. We bought a “Then and Now” book before entering the ruins and it helped a bit to figure out the ruins. In some places bright and colorful frescoes still survived against the walls of some houses. I will let the pictures do the talking. However, much of it was carted off to the National Archaeological Museum in Naples, which leaves Pompeii today as a massive, empty, tourist-ridden “Times Square.” But, it is still very interesting to see the structure/layout of the city, the architecture of the buildings (or what's left of them…in some cases guesswork is very much required), the beauty of the artwork (these people were very color-minded and I would also say very colorful people), which all make for an unforgettable visit. Walking the streets and just being there among the ruins is rather mind-boggling.

Honestly though, it is good to go there, but then also watch a DVD or a Discovery channel program on the subject. You get to see so much more, close-ups, with lots more information than being at the ruins. It is a vast place and although we were nearly everywhere in the ancient city, we would never have completed it all if we had an audio device and if we stopped and listen to all the details at every point. Simply too much! One day at Pompeii is not enough. Unfortunately we were on a schedule and had to catch a train back to Naples and then onto Rome.

There was no time to visit other sites in Naples, like the National Archaeological Museum or the Capella Sansevero with it highly recommended statues of alabaster.

The train trip back to Rome and the subsequent taxi ride to our apartment in Via Licia were uneventful. We went to do some shopping at the local supermarket and then went to a bar, the Robbivecchio, for dinner. Monica’s Margarita (that's the Mexican drink not the pizza) quickly too half her head off and send her swimming in her own Roman sea, while I finished two Peroni’s. Rome was just as hot as Naples. The food and the service were generally terrible. I couldn’t even refuse to tip the bad service because a 12% service charge was included in the price. The waiter was more interested in watching the AC Milan – Liverpool European Champions League final than serving us. But then what did I expect? After all, this is Italy where football is a religion.

Via dell'Abbondanza. One of the main streets of Pompeii. The sidewalks were modernized with concrete for easy walking (still at the same level as in the ancient time), but the cobbled-stone street is the real thing (about a foor below the sidewalk level.)

The fountain inside the House of Fontana Piccola with a colorful wall frescoe.

A close-up of the fountain inside the House of Fontana Piccola.

A close-up of the frescoe in the House of Fontana Piccola.

A beautiful mosaic floor of the House of the Tragic Poet.

Inside the House of Vettii.

Wall Paintings just inside the front door of the House of Vettii. The house was closed to public (locked gate), but I could take this picture through the gate. It was locked due to restoration. Luckily only a few areas in Pompeii was locked for restoration purposes. I think the oversize penis symbolized prosperity of the house's owner. Erotic pictures were all over Pompeii when it was rediscovered, and although some remained, most were taken to the National Archaeological Museum in Naples.

The Grand Theatre at Pompeii.


Inside the Stabian Baths, me wiping away sweat, Lamar, who was our "researcher" for the day browsing the "Then and Now" book to see what the place looked like before the eruption.

Inside the Stabian Baths.

Stabian Baths. A foot of a Plaster cast. The foot bone are still clear visible.

A plaster case inside the storage facilities. The "mummies" or plaster casts were created when the rediscoverers of Pompeii realized that the lava body forms where hollow inside, it became a mold, so they poured plaster inside.




Monday, June 11, 2007

We're off to Italy

After a nine hour overnight flight from Cincinnati to Rome, which was only half full and gave us lots of room to lie down to sleep, our 16 day vacation started on a note of panic. Arriving at the right platform according to the information board, we found a train already at the platform. Not knowing whether this is our train to Naples I got on the train to ask someone already on the train, when all the doors were suddenly locked. I walked through three carriages to find an open door, but no such luck. There I was, on a locked train, my wife and son, and all our luggage on the platform, and I envisaged the train pulling out of the station on a 2 hour non-stop journey to Naples. Monica tried to ask someone that looked like a Trenitalia employee what was going on, but he couldn’t understand, non capisco, keep on telling her "wait". For what? The train was due to depart! At this point more people were trying to get on or get off the train. Eventually, after a good 5 minutes the doors were suddenly unlocked again, we got on and took the first available seats we could find. We were discussing our 'perceived disaster' in Afrikaans when the couple across the isle, Martin and Diana, said to us "You are speaking Afrikaans!" They were from Bedfordview in Johannesburg and on their way from Florence to Naples. So what are the odds? There are only about 5 million people in the whole world that can speak and understand Afrikaans and we would meet some of them on a train in Rome across the isle from us. Small world! It would happen again when we visited the Vatican, but later about that. I wish I had that odds when playing the Powerball lottery.

After we booked into the Hotel Eden, close to Naples' Stazione Centrale we went out in the Campania heat to explore the centro storico along Corso Umberto. I cannot comment a lot about Naples because we only walk around for about 2 - 3 hours, but I was warned in my research to watch out for the scooters in Naples and still I was nearly killed twice by scooters coming from all directions. Naples, the portion we walked through is a gigantic labyrinth of narrow streets and alleys, noise, dirt, buildings falling apart, street vendors, scooters and more scooters, and tiny little cars and the drivers all ignoring the concept of lanes and traffic lights and pavements (walkways) that are supposed to be used by pedestrians. Watch out! This is one chaotic city!

We had dinner that evening in a small family-run pizzeria, just a block away the hotel. Excellent pizza! But then Naples is the birthplace of pizza.

Standing on the balcony of our hotel room I could see, not 30 feet away, how a family was preparing and eating dinner, prostitutes soliciting their customers on the street corner, a baker delivering bread to shops and hotels. One thing I realized after visiting and staying in city centers of London, Chicago and especially in Naples, I like to live out in suburbia. I like space. OK, Danville’s suburbia is more like out in the country, but still, Naples' closeness is far too close for comfort for me. Naples is in your face living.

Lodging: Hotel Eden

Rating: 7 out of 10
Comments: The hotel is very modern and clean and was picked for the one night we were staying in Naples because of its closeness to the station. Desk service was very good. The shower leaked in one of the rooms we had, so stepping out of the shower you step into a swimming pool. Breakfast was included and it was a very good breakfast.


A street scene in Naples.


A 13th century Gothic church down one of Naples' narrow alleys. I wished the old door survived.

It seems, in Italy, where ever you turn you see a church dome. This one is in Naples.
Another street scene in Naples.